Schottland 1974, Teil 1 … Scotland 1974, Part 1

Die deutsche Version findet ihr HIER. Ich teile die alten deutschen Beiträge wieder in jeweils zwei Teile, weil die sonst zu lang werden.

I had promised at some point to start with the second Scottish saga. It is in a total of 16 parts, as we were on the road twice as long.

So here is the start:

Hamburg, Landungsbrücken und Michaeliskirche
Hamburg, embarcation quays and St. Michael’s church

Scotland 1974, part 1, Hamburg-London

As you could read in the 1973 diary, I was very fond of Scotland. So I wanted to go back the following year, all  six weeks of the summer vacation. My best friend and I. We shared the pain of the actually quite useful foreign language school, and now we wanted to share the last opportunity to be on the road for six weeks in one go. Because from next year onwards we would have to work.

I did not mention any dates in the second diary, but my research showed that the summer vacation in 1974 for Hamburg took place from July 1st to August 10th.

As far as the ferry is concerned, there seem to have been two different ones in the two years, but they were both called „Prince Hamlet“. That makes sense because the cafeteria looked very different the second time around. There were no longer any padded benches on which one could sleep reasonably comfortable. The second Prince Hamlet was then replaced by the ’Hamburg’ and the ’Admiral of Scandinavia’. On February 28, 2002 the ferry service from Hamburg was stopped and moved to Cuxhaven. This ferry service was then discontinued on November 6, 2005. No more ferry to England from Germany. Since 2014 it has not been possible to sail to Newcastle from Esbjerg either. The flights and the rental cars have become too cheap. Well, that was a ferryology course. But you probably know how it is once you start doing research on the internet …

This diary also contains other gaps. It almost looks like I’ve been busy with other things than writing …

First of all, I will assume that we sailed on June 28th. I couldn’t find any old timetables. Perhaps on the way we will find some clues in the diary about days of the week or something that can give us information. There is a comment from a weekend on the 16th and 17th travel days (July), that would fit with departure on June 28th, because a departure on July 5th would not fit with a return trip within the summer vacation, which ended on the weekend 10th / 11th August.

June 28, 1974 (Friday)

The ’Prince Hamlet’ casts off in the most beautiful sunny weather. Both the ship deck and the St. Pauli Landungsbrücken are evenly overcrowded and offer a summery, colorful picture. My best friend and I don’t really feel like posing for my father’s film camera and we quickly disappear into the crowd. I don’t want to see anything anymore, because I’m actually already on the other side of the Channel.


Unfortunately, even my imagination cannot save me from the monotony of the crossing. But a silent observer can pass the time a little. There is for example the would-be bon vivant and his greasy friend, who chat up two girls and show off loudly on the deck. The better looking one of the two describes himself as ’a clever fox’ (he is German), orders champagne continuously, and is very surprised that the girls do not want to spend the next week in bed with him. The passengers on deck get their money’s worth in terms of entertainment.

In the course of the afternoon we met a very nice Irish woman, a woman from Berlin and two guys from Hamburg. Many of us spend a hard night on the canteen floor, a melting pot of all kinds of beliefs and social classes. For my girlfriend and me, the night is also relatively cold, because our incredibly warm, aluminum-lined (because it reflects one’s own body warmth), light, as without any eiderdown, space-tested astronaut sleeping bags prove to be an absolute disappointment. In plain language: we are freezing our asses off! After much deliberation, we come to the conclusion that we will probably not spend the nights outside, as originally planned.

June 29, 1974 (Saturday)

The weather the next morning is bad, cold and grumpy. I take my flute, which I have with me this time (a piccolo, fits in my jacket pocket) and sit on a rescue kit in a sheltered corner. „Are you Scottish?“ a man asks me. – „No.“ – But you play Scottish folk songs! “ – „Yes.“ That is maybe supposed to be male logic. My friend also comes over and sings on her guitar, which she is determined to drag around Scotland for six weeks. I long for activity, for the ’up and away’.

Once in Harwich we get lost on the way to the train station (that is some achievement in such a small town) and discover a sandwich shop! We buy a small supply to eat on the train. But, oh how deceptive is outward appearance! We find neatly placed thin slices of cheese and ham on the edge of the sandwich and the middle left bare! I feel cheated! Somebody later tells me that this is common in England. Not cheating, but this kind of bread! However, I never ate sandwiches like this again during the next six weeks. However, our trip goes mainly through Scotland, but does that mean that the English are more Scottish than the Scots?

After arriving in London we first go to the youth hostel, a ’summer hostel’ that is only open in the high season. The mall around St. Paul’s Cathedral is now completed and looks just as ugly as any other. By the way, it was the same youth hostel where Susi and I stayed the year before.

Summer hostel near St. Paul’s Cathedral

I call the brother-in-law of my African friend, with whom we have already agreed to meet, and we plan to meet at the underground station. While I am waiting for him, two English women ask me about the cathedral and I explain the way to them. I think they didn’t even notice that I was a foreigner. Then I notice an African who looks at me carefully as I at him, but then he speaks to a newspaper agent and then hurries away. I rush after him and catch up with him in the youth hostel canteen. It was indeed the brother-in-law. The three of us drive home to him and his wife. My friend’s sister is an extremely lovable creature. She welcomes us as warmly as if we were old friends. The brother-in-law gives me an African tie-dye shirt as welcome present and then we look at the inevitable family photos. All of my African friends have a passion for this. Unfortunately, they generally only take photos of family members and friends, and often not even very well. (I still have some particularly typical specimens.) [O.k., o.k., my family also had such family photo enthusiasts, I admit it. And I myself have a bad reputation for mainly photographing ’flowers in the wind’, more or less sharp, depending on the strength of the wind  So we have nothing to blame each other for. In the meantime, ’birds in the wind’ have been added to my photo passion. My husband even thinks that I should have more people on my photos, as I tend to take pictures of places and nature preferably without humans in them. Most Africans in my circle of friends were absolute people persons.]

Finally the brother-in-law brings us back to the bus. Some youngsters shout after us: „Badhe loves the white!“ He is embarrassed about this and asks us to ignore these stupid young people. Well, there are prejudices everywhere. Badhe invites us to eat and sleep with them on the way back. He also wants to help me buy the snakeskin boots that my friend wants so badly, with platform soles, which are all the rage at the moment.

June 30, 1974 (Sunday)

But the next day Badhe doesn’t have time and I can’t get the shoes. (That’s a good thing, as it turns out later.) My friend has the very clever idea of ​​buying them on the way back, then we could take them with us and save the postage, because I do not want to spend six weeks lugging around a pair of long boots. Surely one must be amazed at the problems civilized people have!

I can’t remember what else we did in London that day. I suppose sightseeing and ’lite bites’.

(To be continued)

Ausflug nach Hamburg … Excursion to Hamburg

Wir waren Anfang Juni zwei Tage in Hamburg bei einer sehr lieben Freundin und ihrer Familie. Wir landeten natürlich im Hafen und begaben uns auch auf eine Elbfahrt. Also Fotos von City-Sightseeing werdet ihr heute hier nicht bekommen.

… At the beginning of June, we were two days in Hamburg at a dear friend’s and her family’s place. Of course we ended up at the harbour and went on a river cruise. This means that you won’t get any photos of city sightseeing here today.

Wir kamen am Abend an, und der nächste Tag sollte ab Mittag sonnig sein. Wir erwachten zu einer dicken, fetten Wolkendecke und konnten uns nicht vorstellen, dass da die Sonne durchkommen sollte. Aber nun ist meine Freundin sehr positiv und überzeugend, so wir verliessen tatsächlich das Haus und machten uns auf in Richtung allerletzte neue U-Bahn. Das war alles völlig neu für mich. Die Endstation heisst Elbbrücken.

… We arrived in the evening, and the next day was supposed to be sunny from around mid day. We woke up to a dense, thick cloud cover and could not imagine that all that should be gone by mid day. But, my friend is very positive and convincing, so we left the house anyway and went in direction of the latest developed underground. All that was completely new to me. The last stop is called Elbbrücken (Elbe bridges).

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Wir wollten eigentlich über die Brücke, zur anderen Seite des Elbarms, aber leider war sie noch nicht fertig. Aber auf dem Bild könnt ihr wenigstens sehen, wie sie in Zukunft mal aussehen wird. Die restliche nähere Umgebung ist stark in der Entwicklungsphase und nicht sehr fotogen.

… We had planned to cross the bridge over to the other side of the Elbe river side arm, but, alas, it wasn’t finished yet. On the photo you can see at least, what it will look like in future. The rest of the area is under strong development and not very photogenic.

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Wir fuhren dann eine Station zurück (Hafencity Universität), eine moderne Station mit wechselnden Farben in der Beleuchtung, weil man von dort durch die Speicherstadt in Richtung Landungsbrücken gehen konnte.

… We then went back one stop (Hafencity Universität (Harbour City University), a modern station with lighting that constantly changed colours, as we could walk from there through the streets with old warehouses in the direction of Landungsbrücken (landing bridges).

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Am Bahnhof Hafencity Universität ist das Wohngebiet „Lohsepark“ am entstehen mit gar nicht so hässlichen Wohnhäusern von denen ich aus unerfindlichen Gründen kein Foto gemacht habe. Das Viertel ist nach dem Ingenieur Hermann Lohse benannt, der den Hannoverschen Bahnhof gebaut hat, der sich ebendort befunden hat. Jetzt ist davon nur noch eine der Mauern als Gedenkstätte zu sehen.

… At the station Harbour City University, the residential area „Lohsepark“ is coming into existence with really not so ugly apartment houses of which I for one or the other reason didn’t take any photos.

Stattdessen habe ich das hier fotografiert, das sich auf der anderen Strassenseite befand: Blumen und Gemüse in Kübeln und Sandsäcken. Und dann war da noch ein im Entstehen befindlicher Kräutergarten. Das fand ich natürlich toll. 😉

… Instead I took photos of this, which we found on the other side of the road: flowers and vegetables in containers and bigbags. And then there was a herb garden under construction. Of course I liked that!  😉

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Als ich noch in Hamburg wohnte, war in der Speicherstadt Freihafen. Jetzt ist es eine schicke Wohngegend mit allerlei Unterhaltung, Museen, Firmen und Restaurants.

… When I lived in Hamburg, the area around the old warehouses was still a freeport. Now it is a fancy living area with lots of entertainment, museums, companies and restaurants.

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Nur an den Speichern und den Fleeten kann man noch den alten Freihafen erahnen.

… Only the warehouses and the town canals are still evidence of the freeport.

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Wir kamen beim Miniatur-Wunderland, der riesigen Miniatur-Eisenbahnanlage vorbei, die in einem der alten Schuppen untergebracht ist. Wenn euch das interessiert, kann ich nur empfehlen, dass ihr eine der speziellen Abendtouren (21.00 bis 24.00 Uhr) bucht, bei denen die Besucherzahl limitiert ist. Sonst seht ihr nämlich nicht viel vor lauter Menschen. Es ist eine ziemlich imponierende Anlage, sogar mit Flugzeugen, die starten und landen und Wechsel der Tageszeiten. Wir waren einmal mit Freunden dort und schafften es gar nicht alles zu sehen.

… We passed by the „Miniatur-Wunderland“ (miniature wonderland), a huge miniature train installation housed in one of the old warehouses. If you are interested to see it, I would recommend to book one of the special evening arrangements (from 9 p.m. until midnight) with a limited amount of visitors. Otherwise you won’t see much for the people. It is quite an impressive construction, even featuring airplanes starting and landing, and the change from day to night. We were there once with friends and didn’t manage to see everything.

Das Mosaik auf der Brücke fand ich bemerkenswert und dann greift dieser Brauch mit den Schlössern anscheinend um sich. Ist ja auch ganz witzig. Es handelt sich hier um die Wilhelminen-Brücke.

… I thought the mosaic on the bridge was noteworthy, and then the habit with the padlocks is running rampant. It is quite cute though. This is the Wilhelminen-Bridge.

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Dieses süsse kleine Gebäude ist, ihr werdet es nicht glauben, eine Polizeistation. Links seht ihr die Elbphilharmonie.

… This cute little building is, you won’t believe it, a police station. To the left you see the Elbe Philharmonics.

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Dann gingen wir zur Aussichtsetage der Elbphilharmonie, um uns einen Überblick zu verschaffen. Dort oben war ich zum ersten Mal. Vor dem schwarzen Legostein kann man drei kleine grüne Kuppeln ausmachen. Das sind die Landungsbrücken und der alte Elbtunnel. Früher konnte man mit dem Auto durchfahren (Fahrstuhl auf beiden Seiten), aber jetzt ist er nur noch für Radfahrer und Fussgänger geöffnet.

… Then we went up to the panorama floor of the Elbe Philharmonics, to get an overview. This was my first time up there. In front of the black Lego brick, one can spot three small green domes. There are the landing bridges and the old tunnel under the river Elbe. In old times it was possible to cross over by car (there is a lift on either side), but now it is only open for pedestrians and cyclists.

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Mein Mann hat von der Elbphilharmonie aus ein Video gemacht von dem Auslaufen eines schönen Segelschiffs, der „Mare Frisium“ („das friesische Meer“, nehme ich einmal an).

… From the panorama floor, my husband has made a video of a beautiful sailing boat that left harbour. It was called „Mare Frisium“ (I guess that is Latin for „the Frisian Sea“).

Von den Landungsbrücken aus nahmen wird dann eines der Hafenschiffe, die übrigens zum ganz normalen Verkehrsnetz gehören, in Richtung Friedrichsruh. Am Ufer sieht man Prachtvillen, Graffiti und Strand, was will man mehr?  😉

… At the landing bridges we boarded one of the harbour boats, which actually are integrated into the public transport net, in the direction of a place called Friedrichsruh (Frederick’s resting place). On the bank you see grand villas, graffiti and beach, what more could one want?  😉

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Wir stiegen bereits am Museumshafen aus. Dort kann man all möglichen alten Schiffe besichtigen, Segler, Dampfschiffe, kleine Eisbrecher, Schlepper etc. etc. Das Wetter war inzwischen wunderschön warm und sonnig geworden, genau wie meine Freundin es prophezeit hatte. Nach so langer Zeit mal wieder all die altbekannten Orte zu sehen, war schon sehr besonders für mich.

… We deboarded one stop before Friedrichsruh at the museum harbour. There one can see all kinds of old ships and boats, sailing boats, steamships, small ice breakers, tugboats etc. etc. The weather had become warm and sunny in the meantime, just as my friend had predicted. It was very special for me to see all these old places after so many years.

 

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Wir wollten das Dampfschiff „Stettin“ besichtigen. Da dort aber Mittagspause war, setzten wir uns erst einmal in ein Restaurant mit diesem tollen Blick.

… We wanted to go on board the steamship „Stettin“, but they were on lunch break. So we sat down at this restaurant with the great view.

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Die „Stettin“:                   … This is the steamship „Stettin“:

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Der Gentleman weiss sich in Positur zu setzen oder stellen … 😉

… The Gentleman knows how to present himself … 😉

sdr

Eine dieser wunderschönen Holzbänke hätte ich gerne mitgehen lassen.

… I would have loved to take one of these beautiful wooden benches with me.

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Der wichtigste Ort, die Kombüse. Man versicherte uns allerdings, dass dies nur die Kaffeeküche war, die richtige Kombüse wäre viel grösser.  😀

… The most important place, the galley. However, we were told that this was only the coffee kitchen, and the real galley was much bigger.  😀

dav

dav

Man konnte sogar in die Maschine, aber ich will euch nicht den vielen Fotos aussetzen, die ich dort gemacht habe. Wer sich dafür interessiert, kann sich die Fotos HIER ansehen.

… One could even go down into the machine, but I don’t want to expose you to the many photos that I took there. Those who are interested, can see them HERE.

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Wir nahmen dann das nächstbeste Schiff zurück zu den Landungsbrücken und lernten auf dem Weg ein sehr nettes Ehepaar aus Syrien und ihre niedliche kleine Tochter kennen, denen es gelungen ist, sich in Hamburg eine neue Existenz aufzubauen. Es ist doch schön, auch einmal eine positive Geschichte zu hören!

… We then took the next possible boat back to the landing bridges and met a very nice young couple from Syria with their cute little daughter on the boat, who had managed to build a new existence for themselves in Hamburg. It is nice to hear a positive story once in a while!

Dies ist das letzte Foto, das ich am Hafen gemacht habe, weil ich das Häuschen so nett fand. Es war aber nichts Romantisches, sondern gehörte zum Sielwesen.

… This is the last photo that I took at the harbour, because I liked the little house. However, it was nothing romantic, but belonged to the sewer authorities.

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… und dann noch, ganz wichtig (finde ich), wenn ihr in die Gegend von Bramfeld, Ohlsdorf oder so in Hamburg kommen solltet oder es kein allzu grosser Umweg ist, fahrt zum Eiskaffee Höft in der Bramfelder Chaussee, Ecke Nüsslerkamp (mit „sz“). ES LOHNT SICH! (Unbezahlte Werbung)

… and then, very important (I find): if you ever come to the area of Bramfeld or Ohlsdorf in Hamburg, or it is not a too long detour, go to cafe Höft for an ice cream, which is on Bramfelder Chaussee, corner of Nüβlerkamp. IT IS WORTH THE WHILE! (Unpaid ad)

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Das war jedenfalls ein passender Abschluss für die beiden richtig schönen Tage in Hamburg.

… In any case, this was a great finale for the two wonderful days in Hamburg.

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Nostalgisches P.S.:
Auf dem Weg zu meiner Freundin kamen wir durch Eppendorf, einer meiner alten Ausgehorte als ich jung war. Die kleine Kneipe, wo Dienstagabend immer Jazz gespielt wurde, meistens mit Werner Böhm am Klavier, manchmal auch mit Gästen, existiert immer noch (die „Schramme“). Damals spielte Werner noch in der Rentnerband mit Peter Petrel und war noch nicht als Gottlieb Wendehals unterwegs (Werner, echt jetzt?). Damals war ich so um die 20 Jahre alt, das waren Zeiten … 🙂  😉  😀

Nostalgic P.S.:
On the way to my friend, we came through the part of town called Eppendorf, one of my old „haunts“ when I was young. The little pub, where on Tuesday nights they used to play Jazz,  usually with  Werner Böhm at the piano, sometimes also with special guests, does still exist (it is called „Schramme“). At that point Werner was still playing in the „pensionist band“  Rentnerband with Peter Petrel and had not yet metamorphosed into Gottlieb Wendehals (Werner, really?). I was about 20 years old then, those were the days … 🙂  😉  😀

 

Stella erinnert sich … Stella remembers

Hamburg im Hauptbahnhof vor ca. 35 Jahren.

Ich stand auf der Brücke, die zur Fussgängerzone Mönckebergstrasse führt. Auf der gegenüberliegenden Brücke vor der so genannten Wandelhalle spielte sich Folgendes ab:

Ein ziemlich abgerissener älterer Mann bettelte die Leute an, mit einem zerknautschen Hut in der Hand. Ein junger Mann, sehr elegant gekleidet, flippte völlig aus, schrie den Mann an, schlug ihm den Hut aus der Hand, und als der sich danach bückte, trat er ihm tatsächlich mit voll Karacho in den Hintern. Fast wäre der alte Mann hingefallen. Der beeilte sich weg. Der junge Mann setzte ihm nach und versuchte, ihn noch einmal zu treten. Ich wollte gerade rüberlaufen, da sehe ich, dass die beiden direkt in die Arme eines Sicherheitsbeamten liefen, der anscheinend alles mitangesehen hatte, denn er nahm den alten Mann in Schutz.

Ich war ziemlich sprachlos. Jemanden, der bildlich gesprochen am Boden liegt, auch noch treten? Kleider machen eben doch keine Leute. Elegant gekleidete Leute können durchaus Wildtiere und Barbaren sein.

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(Foto: Pixabay, shutterstock)

… Hamburg main station, about 35 years ago.

I was standing on the bridge that leads to the pedestrian area of Mönckebergstrasse. On the bridge on the opposite side in front of the so called „Wandelhalle“ (a big hall with shops and cafes) the following took place:

A rather ragged old man was begging for money with a battered hat in his hand. A young man, dressed very elegantly, completely flipped out, shouted at the old man, slapped the hat out of his hand, and when the old man bowed down to pick it up, he kicked him in the behind, believe it or not. The old man nearly fell and then hurried to get away. The young man ran after him and tried to kick him again. I just wanted to rush over when I saw that the two of them ran directly into the arms of a security person, who seemed to have watched it all and who protected the old man.

I was quite speechless. To kick somebody, who – figuratively speaking – was lying on the ground? Fine feathers don’t necessarily make fine birds. Elegantly dressed people can be wild animals and barbarians.