Schottland 1973, Teil 1 … Scotland 1973, Part 1

Die Deutsche Version findet ihr HIER (da ist Teil 1 länger, ich habe den hier in zwei geteilt, weil ich ihn zu lang fand).

I found a few, not so great, paper photos of that trip. The majority of the images exist in form of slides that were partially exposed to water damage. So I will use mainly photos from other people. The ones from London are from our 2018 trip.

Remarks that I cannot refrain from here and now, are in square brackets. Otherwise I have not revised the language of the text from then.

Preface

I went to Scotland for the first time in 1973 at the age of 18 together with my classmate Susi who, funnily enough, was born on the same day as I. Why Scotland? I can’t quite reconstruct it anymore, but I was taken with the Scottish legends and the landscape that I saw in pictures. I had read „The Highland Clearances“ and other books on Scottish history in novel form.

We were students (last year of Gymnasium [grammar school??] and had to keep our expenses to a minimum. A deck crossing on the ’Prince Hamlet’ was very cheap back then. You just slept somewhere on deck. Then there were the Interrail tickets for young people. We wanted to keep the option of taking the train now and then open, because we had no experience with hitchhiking. We approached the whole matter very naively. Maybe that was what made people feel protective, because most of them were really, really helpful. Maybe that’s just the Scots‘ nature. But that’s not entirely fair, because other nationalities were just as accommodating towards us. But the fact is, that the Scots were generally very helpful and hospitable. And at that time the North Sea oil had not yet been discovered …

All in all, the trip was a complete success, despite the criticism that an 18-year-old has to utter. We met a lot of nice people. We had contact with some of them for a long time after the trip. In any case, I went there again in 1974 with my best friend and for twice as long. I loved the gypsy life. In principle, I still do that, but now I want it to be a little bit more comfortable.

In October 2012, my husband and I were in Scotland for a quarter of an hour when we drove to Northumberland National Park, from the Scottish side. I really would like to show him all the places I have been back then. Some things will have changed a lot, others not at all.

But now to the diary of the first trip:

PART 1, Hamburg-London

3rd July 1973

The „Prince Hamlet“ is about to cast off. Mom and the little brother wave, moved. There is monkey heat on the deck, sultry under the roof and there are quite a few idiots on the ship. [Remember, I was 18!] The Elbe and later the English Channel are as smooth and shiny as a mirror. The sun is shining and it is lovely to stare at the water and look forward to Scotland.

This image is from a postcard, and I found it on this website: http://www.simplonpc.co.uk/Prins_Hamlet_1973.html

In the evening Susi and I retreat to the cafeteria to secure sleeping places for the night. We get some friendly offers from crew members, asking if we don’t want a cabin, etc. We make do without and lie down on the benches. In the middle of the night a poor madman rattles on the jukebox. There is a draft from every corner, but finally tiredness wins and we fall asleep.

The next morning, July 4th, 1973, we arrive in Harwich. From there one can take the train to London. We save the 10 pence for the bus and walk the five minutes to the train station, with the result that we get there before everyone else and can still choose our seats. Storing the backpacks gives us difficulties until we finally put one of them on the table.

The train departs. It’s low tide. Boats lie scattered on the mudflats of the bay. Then we got in at low tide, how does that work? Or isn’t the tide out at all and the bay always looks like this?

We drive through a landscape that reminds me of Schleswig-Holstein. There are old, ornate wooden benches at the train stations, and the most beautiful roses are entwined around the fences on the platforms.

Little by little we see more houses and Susi informs me that we are already in London.

Liverpool Street Station: a terrible crowd. We squeeze through the crowd and manage to get into a bank where we want to exchange money. We were advised to do this in England, because we would get a better exchange course.

Then we fight our way back to the train station and go to Hyde Park. The march along the totally overcrowded Oxford Street is a nightmare. I run blindly after Susi, who clears the path. [If you have a rucksack on your back, you can quickly create space by simply spinning around a few times …] At that time, all I see of Hyde Park is a huge lawn and a few trees far back on the horizon. We lay down on the first stretch of lawn we meet, tired and hungry as we are, to eat something. We are actually on the way to the youth hostel, but we know that it is not open yet.

St. Paul’s Cathedral

A little later we are on our way again. The youth hostel is close to St. Paul’s Cathedral. [A summer hostel, the same that my best friend and I stayed at the following year.] A swarm of international youth is already blocking the sidewalk and the street. Entry will be soon. We groan up the stairs, of course we have to go all the way up. Besides us, there are two very nice Italian girls in our room. I manage to annoy one of them by asking if they were Spaniards. [That wasn’t on purpose! Scout’s honor! It’s all Latin in the end!] She reports the terrible insult of the “Tedesca” to her friend, and I hear something like “scandalo” and have to laugh because I think that’s a bit exaggerated. Now they think we understand Italian. In revenge, they then ask us if we were English, which we vehemently protest against. [She had called me Tedesca, so she already knew I was German … haha] 

5th July 1973

The next day we wander through the city for seven hours (breaks not counted). We start at Victoria Embankment, where I take some nice photos, which unfortunately all turn black. Only that one stupid picture of me on a bench turns out good. Big Ben** is a paragon of hideousness in my opinion (my honest opinion). I think Westminster Abbey is more beautiful [This I do not understand, as far as I can see, the style is quite similar]. Many interesting people are buried there, among others Darwin. Then we feel drawn to Regent’s Park, which we finally find with great effort. We lie down on the lawn, pretty much the only visitors at this point, and fall asleep. We wake up at 1 p.m. and are suddenly surrounded by English people. Lunch break?

Not Regent Park, but still …

Somehow, in mysterious ways, we get to Soho, where we come across a market in a small side street, where a one-man band is playing music (with a foot drum and the whole shebang). The boyo is a good guitarist. Soho has the most beautiful pubs with wooden facades and golden letters over the doors. Suddenly, I don’t know how (you’ve probably guessed by now that we don’t have a city map with us …), we’re in Piccadilly Circus, surrounded by crowds of tourists. It is similar on Carnaby Street; you hear almost only German.

The Italian restaurant disappoints me a little. I have never seen several Italians in a group together without either discussing with big arm movements or joking and laughing. But here only serious faces and unfriendly service. Has the English’s reserve rubbed off or is one not welcome here as a German?

What I like about London is that you can look how you want and do what you want without being stared at. But the hustle and bustle makes me nervous. You can’t stop anywhere without someone running into you.

(To be continued: Part 2, London – Leeds – Barnard Castle – Glasgow)

[**Wikipedia corrected me here: Big Ben is what is called the biggest bell in Westminster Palace in London. The name is often used incorrectly about the entire bell tower, which is located at the northeast end of the building and was called St. Stephen’s Tower, before it was renamed Elizabeth Tower in 2012. The bell tower is more than 96 meters high, with 334 steps up to the clock and 399 steps if you want to reach the top.]

Gesehen in … … Seen in …

… Grimsby, Humberside, Grossbritannien/Great Britain …

In der Herrentoilette des Halfway bar and pub
… In the gents‘ room of the Halfway bar and pub

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😀  😀  😀

(Das Foto stammt von einer Reise aus 2012  … the photo was taken in 2012)

P.S.: Um Missverständnissen vorzubeugen: Mein MANN hat das fotografiert … 😉

… P.S.: To prevent misunderstandings: My HUSBAND took the photo … 😉

Lincoln, die Stadt … Lincoln, the town

Wir waren schön öfter bei unseren Freunden, aber bisher noch nie in Lincoln (ich dachte da an Robin Hood, aber der figuriert nirgendwo) (Im Nachhinein – nachgelesen – weiss ich auch warum, denn die Geschichte spielte in Nottingham und nicht in Lincoln. Wer trotzdem was über ihn lesen will, kann das HIER Beruf: heroischer Gesetzloser 😉 ).  Jetzt wollten wir uns endlich einmal die berühmte Kathedrale ansehen und erfuhren „so nebenbei“, das sich dort eine ebenso berühmte Burg befindet.

… We had been paying visits to our friends before, but until now we had never seen Lincoln (I thought of Robin Hood, but there was no trace at all of him) (After having read about him in Wikipedia, I also know why: his story was set in Nottingham and not in Lincoln. If somebody would like to read about him anyway, you can do that HERE occupation: heroic outlaw 😉 ). This time we finally wanted to see the famous cathedral and learned „along the way“ that there is a likewise famous castle.

 

Wir waren ganz kurz im Gefängnis, das in der Burg untergebracht war. Die unten gezeigte Zelle stammt aus viktorianischer Zeit und galt damals als beispielhaft und fortschrittlich.

… We had a short look at the prison that had been housed in the castle. The cell shown below stems from Victorian times, and it was at that time considered state of the art and very progressive.

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Die in der Burg, in einem extra dafür gebautem Tresorraum, untergebrachte Magna Carta durfte man nicht fotografieren (die Charter of the forest war auch dort). Es gab wohl zehn Exemplare, aber jetzt sind nur noch vier übrig, eine in Lincoln Castle, zwei in der British Library in London und eine in Salisbury Cathedral.

… We also looked at the Magna Carta, which is being kept in the castle in an especially built vault (the Charta of the forest is also being kept there). It was not allowed to take a photo of the chartas. There existed 10 specimen of the Magna Charta, but today only four of them have survived; one in Lincoln Castle, two in the British Library in London and one in Salisbury Cathedral.

Aber nun lasst uns einen Rundgang auf der Burgmauer machen und ein bisschen auf die Häuser von Lincoln schauen:     … But now let’s go for a walk on the castle walls and look down on the houses of Lincoln:

Danach ging es an einem interessanten Pub und schönen Häusern vorbei zur Kathedrale. Gemäss unseres Freundes ist sie eine der feinsten Kirchen im ganzen Land. Das könnte man sicherlich auch über die Burg sagen. (Im Burghof war alles vorbereitet für eine Fernsehübertragung der königlichen Hochzeit mit mobilen Toiletten etc., daher habe ich keine Fotos davon gemacht.)

… Afterwards we went past an interesting pub and beautiful houses to the cathedral. Our friend told us that it is considered one of the finest in the country. I guess this could also be said about the castle. (In the inner ward they had made preparations for a television transmission of the royal wedding with mobile toilets etc., therefore I didn’t take photos there.)

Ebenfalls wegen der königlichen Hochzeit am folgenden Tag, war der Organist am üben, Glück muss man haben! Später kam dann auch noch der Kirchenchor und übte, wunderbar! Während wir anderen herumgingen, meditierte mein Mann zur Orgelmusik. Er erzählte mit hinterher, dass das ein fantastisches Erlebnis war.

… Also because of the royal wedding the next day, the organist was rehearsing, how lucky can one be? Later on the church choir came in to rehearse as well, wonderful! while we others went around, my husband meditated to the organ music. He told me later that it had been a fantastic experience.

In einer Kapelle hingen eine ganze Menge Fahnen. Dieser Text fiel unserem Freund auf: Die rote Nationalflagge wehte auf einem Handelsschiff während seiner vielen Reisen im Pazifik im zweiten Weltkrieg und wurde von E. G. Blackburn aus Lincoln geschenkt. Die australische Fahne wurde vom Australia House gestiftet. Die daneben hängende weisse Nationalflagge wurde von E. C. Cordeaux RN geschenkt und wehte auf der HMS Lapwing in der Skagerrakschlacht am 31. Mai 1916.

… In one of the chapes a number of flags were shown. Our friend notices this text:
„The Red Ensign was flown by a merchant vessel during her many voyages in the Pacific during the Second World War and ws donated by E. G. Blackburn of Lincoln. The Australian Flag was given by Australia House. The adjacent White Ensign was given by E. C. Cordeaux RN and had been flown by HMS Lapwing at the Battle of Jutland 31 May 1916, …“.

Der Kathedrale ist ein Kloster angeschlossen.    … There is a monastery joined to the cathedral.

Ein kleiner Witz des Architekten: an einer Säule brachte er ein Trollgesicht an, sozusagen sein Warenzeichen.

… A little joke of the architect: on one of the columns he placed a troll face, his trademark so to speak.

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Hier noch ein paar Bilder aus der Altstadt:       … Here some photos from the old part of the town:

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Abends bekamen wir abermals einen herrlichen Pub gezeigt. Ein gemeinsames Projekt der Anwohner. Sie wollten gerne ihren lokalen Pub behalten, der drohte Pleite zu gehen,  und haben daher mit der Kommune eine Absprache getroffen. Die Kommune stellt den Pub zur Verfügung und die Anwohner betreiben ihn. Das Ganze ist ein Non-Profit-Unternehmen, denn fast alle, die dort arbeiten sind Freiwillige und kellnern, kochen und reinigen gratis. Das Essen war einfach super und dann auch noch preiswert. Wir hatten einen Kellner der Deutsch ohne englischen Akzent sprach; das ist eher selten. Er war als Soldat in Deutschland stationiert gewesen.

… In the evening our friends took us to another marvellous pub. This was a joint project of the residents. They wanted to keep their local pub, which was threatened by bankruptcy and have, therefore, made a deal with the municipality. The latter would put the pub at their disposal, and the residents would run the place. It is run as a non-profit-organization so to speak, because almost everybody, who works there is doing so as a volunteer. The food was simply great and not expensive at all. We had a waiter who spoke German without an English accent; that is rather rare. He had been stationed in Germany as a soldier.

Das war ein schöner Abschluss für unseren allzu kurzen Besuch. Aber wie sagt man in Dänemark: gammel fisk lugter (alter Fisch stinkt), was so viel heissen soll wie, dass niemand Gäste mag, die zu lange bleiben … 😉

… That was a splendid ending to our all too short visit. But, how do the Danes say: gammel fisk lugter (old fish stinks), which means as much as that nobody likes guests, who stay too long … 😉

Östliches Lincolnshire … Eastern Lincolnshire

Unser Spaziergang begann und endete an einem Pub. Als wir losgingen, wurde gerade Bier angeliefert. Das war gut zu wissen! Als wir zurückkamen, war der Pub allerdings geschlossen. Aber das haben wir später nachgeholt.

… Our walk started and ended at a pub. When we started out, they were delivering beer. That was good to know! However, when we came back, the pub was closed. But we made up for that later.

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Lincolnshire Wolds heisst diese schöne Landschaft. Und sie liegt im nördlichen Lincolnshire mittig bis östlich (also von der Mitte nach rechts, aber nicht bis an die Küste … 😉 )

… This beautiful area is called Lincolnshire Wolds. It is situated in the north of Lincolnshire, from the middle to the east (that is from the middle to the right, but not quite out to the coast … 😉 )

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Diese wilden Lichtnelken, die bei uns so selten sind, wachsen hier zuhauf.

… These wild red campions, which are so rare at our place, are growing in abundance here.

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Was kommt denn da durch das hohe Gras? Ein kleiner Hund, der Hund meiner Freundin, ein kleiner Mini-Jack-Russell, klein aber oho, der hat seine Meinungen … ein charmanter kleiner Wuffer.

… What is this coming through the high grass? A little dog, my friend’s dog, a little mini-Jack-Russel terrier, small but powerful, he has got his opinions … a charming little guy.

 

Wir kamen an dieser interessanten alten Kirche vorbei, St. Peter’s church, ursprünglich aus dem 13. Jahrhundert, aber 1839 in Ziegeln wiederaufgebaut.

… We came past this interesting old church, St. Peter’s church, originally from the 13th century, but in 1839 rebuilt with brick.

Es gibt ein Taufbecken aus dem 15. Jahrhundert

… There is a font from the 15th century

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und Glasarbeiten aus dem 16. Jahrhundert (flämisch?).

… and glass works from the 16th century (flamish?).

Der englische Drachen und die hohen Fenster scheinen neueren Datums zu sein. Der Altarplatz wurde 1883 restauriert, aber von wann stammt er? Die Angaben über die Kirche stammen aus der Wikipedia.

… The English dragon and the high windows seem to be of later date. The chancel was restored in 1883, but how old is it? The facts about the church are taken from Wikipedia.

Wie bei vielen Landkirchen fehlt es an Gemeindemitgliedern, aber einmal im Vierteljahr wird hier ein Gottesdienst gehalten. Es gibt auch noch andere Aktivitäten. Man versucht wirklich, die Kirche am Leben zu erhalten. Die Decke wurde vor Kurzem renoviert.

… As with many country churches, there is a lack of parishioners, but once every four months a service is being held here. There are also other activities. People really try to keep the church alive. The ceiling has been renovated lately.

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Auch an der Kirche fand sich Grün und Wasser.

… Also next to the church was green and water.

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Wir sahen uns die alten Grabsteine an. Ein Anwohner war anscheinend Pirat von Beruf  … 😉

… We looked at the old gravestones. One of the locals seems to have been a pirat … 😉

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Die Uptons waren am meisten vertreten, und dann die Sutcliffes und die Bakers oder war es Barkers? Aber das ist euch sicherlich egal … 😉

… The Uptons were most buried here, and then the Sutcliffes and the Bakers or was it Barkers? I am sure that you don’t really care … 😉

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Abends nach dem Essen in einem türkischen Restaurant zeigte uns der Mann meiner Freundin noch einen sehr schönen alten Pub, klein aber fein und gerade renoviert. Sehr charmant, schaut selbst:

… In the evening after a nice meal at a Turkish restaurant, my friend’s husband showed us a beautiful old pub, small but nice and recently renovated. Very charming, have a look for yourself:

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In dem Raum war nach rechts auch noch Platz für zwei Tische. Und unten seht ihr die Lounge:

… In this room were two more tables to the right. Below you see their lounge:

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Das war ein schöner Abschluss eines wohlgelungenen Tages. Vielen Dank an euch, liebe Freunde!

… This was a nice closing of a successful day. Many thanks to you, dear friends!

Am nächsten Tag stand Lincoln Stadt auf dem Programm, inklusive Burg und Kathedrale. Ich kann jetzt schon verraten, dass der Tag genauso wohlgelungen war! 😉

… For the next day we had Lincoln city on our programme, including both, the castle and the cathedral. I can already reveal that the day was just as wonderful!  😉